Goodness, I'm going to have to eat my words. No sooner do I snipe at the lamentable Mediterraneo than I fish another of Blacknall's samples out of the pile, and it's exquisite. Exquisite.
Dry, biting, witchy and glimmering, Philtre d'Amour is the sort of fragrance that Dorothy Parker or Vincent Millay could wear to hell and back without breaking stride. Although it hails from that great party year 1999, it reads like a much, much older chypre-- really almost Jazz Age. It fits right in alongside Chypre de Coty, Millot Crêpe De Chine, and Mitsouko-- most interesting, given that its release occurred a mere four years before IFRA declared war on perfumery elements such as oakmoss. Did Guerlain know something no one else was privy to-- that the chypre's days were numbered, and that it had better pay tribute while it still could? If so, bravo: this one's a beaut.
Scent Elements: Bergamot, lemon, verbena, jasmine, iris, petitgrain, neroli, myrtle, oakmoss, patchouli