After you've spent time in the perfume blogosphere, you notice that certain writers favor the play-by-play method of perfume criticism-- exhaustively describing every single note's appearance, performance, and departure as if timing the whole production with a stopwatch. Others save up their hyperbole for the gestalt of the thing-- rapturously detailing each subjective swoon and flutter experienced in the wearing. Both methods are fine, though sometimes I wonder at the perfumes which merit the analysis. You know what I'm talking about: fourteen paragraphs for something that can be summed up in one sentence.
Therefore, let me keep this brief: Serge Lutens' Santal Majuscule seems pretty miniscule to me. I'm hardly the first to say so, but the jibe practically writes itself, doesn't it? There aren't enough dimensions here to require the use of a dictionary. I shall merely remark that perfumer Christopher Sheldrake is entitled to his off days, and leave it at that.
To cheer ourselves up, let's put on some Victoria's Secret Mandarin Santal-- the "Silk" of the lingerie-themed Parfums Intimes quartet. Everything in this perfume is clearly and perfectly stated-- written in bright fire as it were, so that there is no misunderstanding. Sweet tangerine, smoldering wood: say no more, mere mortal!
Scent Elements: Sandalwood, cacao, Damascene rose (Santal Majuscule); sandalwood, mandarin, mimosa, honey, musk, woods (Silk: Mandarin Santal)