Amberene, redux and redone.

On and off over the last few weeks, I've been wearing Soivohle Amberene. No special reason; I was pawing through my stash and gave in to the urge to get reacquainted. Had I known that Amberene has been not only renamed but reformulated by its creator, I would have worn it with more nostalgia.

Amberene was once a spicy, strongly vanillic amber kept from piercing sweetness by a touch of acerbic citrus. Now it is known as Burnt Pyrrole and is described by Liz Zorn as a "natural smoky amber-based essence with spice notes and a botanical musk". Perhaps you could say something similar about Amberene. But I can't help thinking that Burnt Pyrrole is an entirely separate and distinct fragrance. Surely it can't be Amberene masquerading under a new nom de parfum!

Now, I know you're not supposed to judge a perfume by its notes list. But compare the two fragrances' scent elements:

Amberene: Grapefruit, clove, cinnamon, cardamom, violet, heliotrope, tonka, benzoin, patchouli
Burnt Pyrrhole: Labdanum absolute, benzoin, Oman frankincense, balsam Tolu, spices, ambrette, smoked tea


Do those look like they would smell anything like one another? It will take a sample of Burnt Pyrrole for me to find out. Until then I will cherish my tiny vial of Amberene, such as it is-- or rather, was.